According to garments industry we face sometimes lycra braking on heavy fabric in garments sector. That the reason, we have to analyze & investigate how to remove & minimize lycra braking on garments because it is huge loss on garments price for garments factory. After read this article we can easily understand how to prevent & minimize lycra braking in the following.
Wrong size of needle use: Wrong size, wrong diameter and defective needle can occur Lycra braking of garments. So, needle size and quality is the most important component to control Lycra braking of garments in sewing stage. For Lycra fabric needs to use special type of needle and needle has to choose according to fabric thickness, process design and demand. Needle must be used with lower number of size including with ball point and thin diameter.
Needle not changing timely basis: Needle have limit of time to work like others equipment or metal .Sharpness and bent needle can be high cause of huge amount of Lycra braking. So need to change needle timely basis for every process twice a day to avoid Lycra braking which are occurring from sharp less and bent needle.
Improper mechanism setting for sewing purpose. Setting of Improper mechanism also can be cause of Lycra braking. Needle, presser feet, feet dog, and needle bar, needle plate everything need to adjust according to fabric and process demand. Wrong mechanism can be occurring injury of fabric as a result Lycra braking will come. So every stage of sewing process has to attentive to use inaccurate mechanism to avoid Lycra Braking.
Poor handling by operator: Poor operating system by the operator can be cause of Lycra braking and fullness of garments. If operator pulling and pushing process during operation and given un-even sewing allowance, one part loose and another part pulling during process then also can occurring Lycra braking and fullness. So need to well aware to operator about proper operating system of stretch fabric.
Get-together sewing and tack on process: If engaging get –together sewing ,stitch and tack in the same line of process, In that case there is chance to braking yarn in tacking area due to get- together passing of needle in the same area. As a result, Lycra breaking will come in that particular area.
Uneven sewing allowance setting on process: During sewing if operator setting uneven sewing allowance in between two layers of part then seams area fabric will be unbalance. So after wash in unbalancing area can be occurring fullness and Lycra braking. So its matter of high concern to give exact sewing allowance in seams area.
Pulling the parts during sewing: If during sewing parts to parts create up down and operator trying to adjust up down parts by pulling short part or assumed loose at long parts, in that case on pulling parts can occurring Lycra braking and looseness parts can occurring fullness. So during operation need to put more concern and make sure that, there is no more up-down in between two layers of parts at seams area.
High density of bar tack stitch: If use high density of SPI in bar tack. In that cause of bar tacking area can occurring yarn cut and yarn pulling due to additional needle stamping in a same area. So it also high cause of Lycra braking. In this case we have to use low density of SPI for bar taking and following this way it possible to avoid Lycra braking and looseness in bar tacking area. Also if necessary we can attach bar tack in after wash garments for avoid fullness and Lycra braking at bar tacking area.
High pressure of machine: Due to excessive pressure and run of machine, in process getting pulling out during operation and surface get injure which are can cause of Lycra braking. So, at this point need to adjust machine with suitable pressure.
Sharpness of machine bed and others goods holding equipment: Sharpness of machine bed, Conveyor belt, Goods holding box, inspection table and others equipment can be cause of pulling the yarn of goods ,after pulling yarn Lycra breaking will be occur. So it is important to make sure all equipment surfaces and edged are fully secure and there is no more sharpness.
Excessive moveable sewing allowance: Excess s sewing allowance also cause of Lycra braking. If sewing process have excess allowance in the particular process and its moves left to right and up to down and excess allowance rubbing on garments continuously, then rubbing area occurring Lycra breakage. So, in this case we have to more concern of sewing allowance. As well as have to concern about using any binding, tape allowance, and thickness and sharpness.
If tie goods tightly before and after wash: Maximum factory make quantity wise bundle after swing the goods and tied bundle through the string. In that case tied area come crinkle. It’s accruing after wash garments also from the same reason.
Wash Stage: (Wet & Dry process):
During dry process getting stress out: During dry process if dummy are over loaded with compressor air. So, dummy wearing garments also become bulky and after dry process bulky shapes not get back exact before shape. In that’s case in after wash garments will come looseness and Lycra braking in that particular cause. In this situation need to follow during dry process dummy not over loaded by the air.
Use inappropriate size of silicon carbide paper for hand scraping: During dry process if use inappropriate silicon carbide paper for scraping and pushing excess pressure by silicon carbide paper during rubbing on garments for blasting process, in that case fabric surface get injure. As a result looseness and Lycra braking will occur. So, it is important to selects silicon carbide paper according to fabric thickness and properties.
Use improper ratio of chemical: Proper ratio of the chemical one of the most important elements of stretch for wash. Essential to maintain chemical ratio exactly batch to batch, wrong ratio of chemical also can be cause of huge amount Lycra braking. So during wash exactly follow of ratio, water and chemical and others elements. Any of discrepancy of chemical ratio can be occur of Lycra braking.
Temperature and wash time not control exactly: Every fabric has properties to absorb limited amount of temperature. If engage high amount of temperature, time during wash in this case Lycra braking and fullness will come on goods. So, we have more concern about setting temperature and wash time during wash the goods.
Use gas dryer instead of steam dryer: In gas dryer not possible to control temperature exactly also temperature comes up and down. When temperature comes to up then require temperature in that case will occur Lycra braking. But in stem dryer temperature is constant, no ups and down is there as well as no more Lycra braking occurs during wash the garments.
Not hang out goods eventually during curing: If have crinkle on garments. And crinkle need to fixed through woven curing machine. If during curing garments placed in side of woven hanging with loop un-evenly or un-balancing mode, in that case hanging loop`s area can come Lycra braking. In this situation goods need to hang out with clipping at waist band and placed in woven curing with eventual mode. Otherwise,fullness and Lycra braking not possible to moderate on garments.
Wash goods keep in bumpily mode: If after sewing factory keeping many goods with bumpily mode.in that case permanent crease arise in garments then after wash come looseness in that particular area.
Not using weight gain chemical for increase Lycra braking strength of fabric: Some case in average garments found Lycra breaking after wash due to poor strength properties of yarn., In that particular case need to use weight gain chemical to increase Lycra braking strength during scouring the goods ,as well as during 1st wash also can use if needed.
Getting excessive force in during wash on process, like pocket bag: If pocket bag and related opening process not closed with the false tack then during wash water and others force come in to pocket bag and not come out with the same force. In this situation water force going to hit at the pocket bag joining area, as a result Lycra braking occurring in that area. So need to use tack to close the opening area, then water not goes to inside of pocket bag and extra force will not create that particular area. As a result, there will not occurring any Lycra breakage.
Wash without closing zipper opening Area: If zipper keeps open during wash then coming extra amount of force on zipper attaching especially fly opening area during wash and drying. As a result, due to extra amount of force going to opening area / zipper joining area and occurring Lycra breakage. So during wash need keep zipper close, also if possible need to close zipper opening the tack then Lycra breakage will minimize.
RMG Consultant & Researcher